Istalif is a historic village on the slopes of the Koh Daman, north of Kabul, overlooking the green Shomali Plain. In the early 16th century the Mughal ruler Babur admired the place and is said to have held gatherings in its gardens. Today it is known above all for its pottery.
In the potters’ quarter, Qarya-e Kulalan, shops along the main street display jugs, bowls and plates glazed turquoise, aquamarine and earthy brown. The craft passes from parents to children. Clay is thrown on wheels turned by the potter’s feet, and the pieces dry first in the shade and then in the sun.
The famous turquoise comes from a glaze based on ishkar, the local name for the roots of an ash plant, mixed with quartz and copper oxide. Potters etch geometric patterns into the surface before the final firing. For many visitors from Kabul, a day of picnicking in Istalif’s hills ends with a bowl to take home.